You only have one chance to take some of these steps.
Congratulations! You got a new computer!
Of course, you want to jump right in and start using it right now, but if you can hold on a bit, there are a few tasks to do first. The steps you take now can save you lots of time and grief later. (Meaning when all heck breaks loose and the machine dies, the software crashes, or you get a massive malware infection.)
Every day, people lose important data, precious memories, and valuable time because they didn’t take a few simple steps to prepare.
And by far the best time to prepare is at the beginning.
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The first things to do with your new computer
- Disconnect from the internet
- Create a system image
- Make a recovery drive
- Setup automated backups
- Confirm security software
- Reconnect
- Update completely
- Back up again
1. Disconnect that new computer from the internet
I know you’ve already connected; you just couldn’t help yourself, I’m sure.
I’m the same way.
You may need to stay online to complete the initial setup of your computer using your Microsoft account, but until we’ve made sure of a couple of items, let’s pull off the highway for a moment if you can.1
2. Make a system image backup
Using Macrium Reflect, EaseUS Todo (the free edition of either will do), or a similar tool, take a complete image backup — sometimes called a full system backup — of your entire machine. Make sure your backup tool supports what’s called a “bare metal” restore: the ability to restore to a machine that has a completely empty hard drive. It’ll be on the program’s list of features.
Even if you did get installation media, which is rare these days, a backup image taken now can be more convenient should you need to reset the computer to the state it was in on the day you got it.
The reasoning here is simple: this backup is an image of your machine as you got it. It’s a true reset to factory settings. Should you ever need to start over and reformat/reinstall the machine, you can restore this image backup instead. It will return your machine to the exact condition it’s in right now in a single step. You don’t even need to know how to do that today; the important thing is that you create the image backup and save it now.
3. Make a System Recovery drive
A recovery drive is a USB flash drive created by Windows from which you boot your computer in order to perform a number of Windows recovery tasks, including reinstalling Windows from scratch.
How to Create a Windows Recovery Drive walks you through the process. Once again, this is something you want to do shortly after getting your new machine because it’ll reflect the version of Windows as installed on your machine on the day it arrived.
Another option is to download Windows Setup media and save it (or download it at some future date when you need it). The issue here is that this image will be generic. It may not include everything the recovery drive made with your own machine would.
4. Set up regular backups
While you’ve got your backup software out, take the time to schedule regular automated backups.
Exactly what that looks like depends on your needs and how you use your computer, but in general, backing up your machine daily to an external hard drive is good practice.
If you’re not sure what to do, I have a process outlined for you.
5. Confirm your security software
Windows 10 and 11 come with security software pre-installed and enabled: Windows Security. If you leave that enabled, you’re done here.
On the other hand, occasionally you’ll find other solutions pre-installed by your manufacturer, or you might want to avoid the Windows built-in solution for some reason.
Either make sure the pre-installed software is configured and properly enabled, or download the alternative you choose and set it up instead. Make sure to uninstall the security tools you’re replacing (except for Windows Security, which will step aside when something else replaces it).
My recommendation, however, is that Windows Security is just fine. With it enabled from the start, you really don’t need to do anything else.
6. Connect to the internet
You may have had to do this already to download alternative security software, but regardless, now’s the time if you haven’t.
We used to discuss things like firewalls at this stage, but the fact is:
- You’re likely connecting through a router, which acts as a perfectly adequate firewall.
- Windows will have its own firewall enabled as well.
With those as safe assumptions, connect.
7. Update, update, update
Take the time now to update Windows in particular and all other applications and software installed on your machine.
Check for updates repeatedly until there are no more updates available.2
Keeping your software updated keeps your machine safe from malware that exploits bugs in the software on your machine, known as unpatched vulnerabilities. Updates are issued regularly to fix those bugs.
8. Back up again
Once your machine is completely up to date, take another image backup.
While the image backup taken in step 3 is perhaps the most important, this backup will be the most convenient. Why? Because if you ever need to use it, you’ll have already performed steps 4, 5, and 6, and will have a head start on step 7. You won’t have to update nearly as much as if you started with the machine returned to factory settings.
There’s an argument that you don’t need both, but I prefer caution. This is the backup you’re most likely to use, while the backup from step 3 is an additional safety net.
Do this
Of course there’s always more, but the steps outlined above are a good start towards basic protection. These steps will help protect your investment, data, time, and peace of mind.
Now would also be a good time to subscribe to Confident Computing! Less frustration and more confidence, solutions, answers, and tips in your inbox every week.
Podcast audio
Footnotes & References
1: I’m close to calling this step optional because of that Microsoft account setup requirement. I get that it’s difficult to know when to then disconnect. The important thing is that the system image backup step happen as soon as possible.
2: Since this is a “clean” machine, before installing any of your applications or running it for any extended period of time, this is the point at which even problematic updates are most likely to succeed.
Re: System Imaging. Making an immediate system image is a good idea. But I’d suggest making a second system image (not just scheduling backups) right after installing security software, Windows/Microsoft updates, specific programs, apps, utilities, and configuring the machine with personal settings like themes, etc.
The original system image will return the machine to the exact state it was in when it left the factory. But that second system image will preserve the hours of personalization that everyone does. Then depending on how much the machine changes through use, other system images would be called for … maybe once a month, or even once a week.
Completely agree with Mary!
Add a step 8.1 – Create a 2nd image with all updates in place and create a new image at least once per month thereafter, keeping as many previous images as your media can hold (3 months minimum for my own peace of mind)…
Fully agree! I think having 2 initial backups (one pre and one post updating) just as insurance against a bad image is critical. It doesn’t happen often but I have had DVDs go unreadable. Insurance is something you hope you never need to use but are awfully glad you have it when you need it.
Those are great suggestions. This article only talks about what to do when you first get a computer. Leo has written more than a hundred articles on the need for and the how to’s of backing up.
Leo, regarding your statement: “If you don’t have installation disks, now’s the time to get in touch with the vendor and insist on them – even if they cost a little extra.”
A friend of mine buying a new HP desktop online on my advice asked for, requested, pleaded for, offered to pay for, a Windows installation disc and was turned down, refused, etc. with no options. He still bought the machine because it was the one he wanted.
What do you do in a case like this? Are you certain that your recommendation isn’t outdated? Would you please comment?
Frank D
If you can’t get them, then as soon as you can possibly do it – take an image backup of the machine. Then save that (heck, make two copies for safety). If you need to reinstall just restore to this backup image to get the machine back to the state it was in when you got it.
29-Dec-2010
Things have changed since that article was written. You can, now, download Windows directly from Microsoft and create Windows installation media yourself. Where Can I Download Windows?
I also tell everyone that gets a new PC and fortunenate to get systems disks to keep them inside, at the bottom of the tower to keep them safe and you will know where they are. Laptops, put them in a safe or a fire box or where ever you keep important documents.
I also make a complete backup onto a dedicated external HDD…thats came in handy. I dont do a backup to dvd’s, that will take 10 blank dvd’s for my system. I could use dvdrw’s, but a lot less hassle using an external.
Putting them inside the computer is dangerous. First off, you shouldn’t be opening up the computer in the first place — it’ll void your warranty if nothing else, and the interior should only be accessed by personnel who know what the h*ll they are doing!
Second off, any media kept inside the computer will not be in a neutral environment — there is LOTS of heat, LOTS of accumulayed dust, and LOTS and LOTS of electrical and magnetic fields.
If you get the idea that I consider secreting media inside your computer a terrible idea — well, BINGO!
Well-timed article, Leo. And the advice is spot on, as usual.
Regarding Frank’s comment about HP computers, I have had 3 HP computers over the years and every one of them came with a Restore partition that is used to create your own installation disk(s). I’ve had to use two of them, and they worked perfectly. But when my father-in-law’s Dell computer had problems, the installation disk provided by Dell proved useless. So the availability of an installation disk, or the lack thereof, isn’t necessarily the most important factor.
When creating installation disks, I would also advise using the best available disks, or making multiple copies on different brands (although you may be limited to a single copy). Some cheaper CD’s and DVD’s have questionable shelf lives, and this isn’t the time to spare a couple of bucks.
I’d absolutely second that motion!
Use archival-grade Gold CD’s or DVD’s. (Not merely a gold-colored label, obviously; real Gold CD’s actually are Gold, and you can see that when you turn them over and look at the recording side. They’re gold instead of silver! They’re also expensive as all h*ll, but, again, this is not the time to be “saving money.”
I also add removing any trialware, games and general bloatware that is installed to subsidized the cost of new computers. I have had success with PC Decrapifier, which does exactly as the name implies. Make sure to create a restore point in case you are overly aggressive in the removal. A free program that is in my kit whenever I install a new computer.
29-Dec-2010
@Frank – there should be an application on the computer that can burn rescue CDs or DVDs from a hidden partition on the hard drive. These rescue discs, that you make yourself, can return the computer to the factory fresh state. They may be called recovery discs.
That said, I wouldn’t bother.
Returning to factory fresh state will become useless after a few months. Far better to invest time/effort into learning how to make image backups and then making them every month or two. Image backups are the greatest thing since sliced bread.
DriveImage XML has many advantages but it does not, out of the box, offer a bare metal restore.
I have a new laptop without intallation media, and I can`t make full backup image, becuase the hard disk is 250 GB of one partition, do you advice me to devide him or what is the alternative?
29-Dec-2010
An image backup doesn’t make an image of the full disk, including blank space (that would be a ‘cloned drive’). With the image backup, you can reinstall the operating system and anything else you’ve put on. In other words, if you’ve ‘USED 45 GB’ on your disk, that’s the size the image will be.
Actually the image will be somewhat smaller, since imaging software typically compresses as well.
The Windows Product Key that one can find with Belarc Advisor is unusable if you want to install Windows from scratch. In that case you need the Product Key from the sticker on the case of the laptop (or other computer)–and that sticker could very well be unreadable after some time. Write the Key down somewhere, e.g. on an extra sticker in the battery compartment! By the way, there is a method to use the original Key, but that’s a different story.
The product key that shows with Belarc Advisor has “always” worked for me.
If the computer is an HP Pavillion (I can’t speak for other brands BUT if they are consumer models I expect the same is true) and you want it to work well – use the recovery partition and system repair to reformat with a minimal install. After suffering with BSODs day after day and not being able to install and uninstall programs w/o editing the registry I started the process and up popped several choices one of which was MINIMAL INSTALL OF THE OPERATING SYSTEM. What a difference – it now works like a one expects a mobile I7 to work.
Just be smart and do it on day one not after two months of slow but steady decline in useability.
@Michael Horowitz: My friend and I have burned HP’s rescue/recovery DVDs for our PCs. At least being able to return the PC to factory state can save from a disaster, and can also serve for passing the PC on to a future/other user. However, I still can’t figure out why so much emphasis is placed on getting the Windows system installation disc if it’s not readily available from the PC manufacturer, yet everyone seems to say that it’s needed. There is a disconnect here.
As you suggested, both my friend and I have also invested in external hard drives as Leo recommends, and we make system images that can be used to restore to recent operating condition if the need arises. We created the required emergency boot disc and do a new image weekly, with an incremental update nightly (using EASEUS Todo Backup Advanced).
Nope sorry , Do not agree with the windows update advice.
I have had major issues with software not working after a Microsoft update. I keep my updates turned off and I stop the update service as well. Now my apps keep working and With F-Secure running in the background I never have any problems any-more , Except the ones I create . Like updating Nvidea drivers and suddenly my graphics apps don’t want to work anymore.
Also Microsoft tends to install stuff that you dont need and then they run in the background and hogs the system.
Everything else is 100% .
My Win7 OS runs for years and not just months and Im on it up to 8hrs a day .
I decide if I want or need a Microsoft update not them. But I never do and my Machine is as clean and fast as if I installed Win7 yesterday.
30-Dec-2010
Leo, you suggest storing the system and installation disks in a safe place. I also make a disk copy of those disks and keep them at another location. And when I have needed to use those installation disks I try to use the backups so the originals don’t get handled too often. Maybe I’m really paranoid but better safe than sorry.
I , personally, want the original installation disc’s for multiple reasons foremost being ….. I re-install on a regular basis and want to be sure I have the original REGISTRY installed! Besides…. I’m “cheap” and if i’m paying for something (i.e. the O.S.) …. then I want it! :)
Also, about system images, on the two occasions I’ve had to use them my win7 only recognized one. 50% is not something I want to bet on.
Hello,
Re: availability of original installation discs
Most people, when purchasing a new (or second hand) computer get the machine with the OS and some application software readily installed. Also none of them will get any of the original software discs.
Everyone agrees that this practice is a bloody nuisance and it gives the consumer the feeling of “having been taken for a ride”, of having been cheated. After all, one might expect to get a full product for ones money. But no. Whenever you need some serious recovery (i.e. reinstalling your OS) you have to go to your local technician or purchase a (fairly expensive) special “recovery disc” which will only reset your OS to the manufacturer’s original settings and nothing more. You have to buy the full operating system seperately – or get some pirated version (which I am certainly not advizing anyone to do!).
For other applications there are loads of downloadable freebies. And of course one might argue that nobody actually obliges anyone to purchase any of MS’s OSs. But I dare anyone to ask a computerdealer to sell you a machine that runs some build of Linux OS without losing your 3 or 5 year warranty (hardware inclusive!). Armies if lawyers insist that MS has no monopoly whatsoever nor uses any monopolistic policies while every wellinformed consumer simply knows that this legalistic view is lightyears away from everyday reality.
So, what is really going on?
IMO… (and not mine only) something along the lines of the following…
Some big computervendor buys a large batch of machines from some manufacturer, software installed, planning to sell smaller batches of those to a smaller retailers. At the same time he purchases a number of licenses from the softwaredeveloper(s) to go with it, and reselling the mentionned licences along with them. Each time a machine changes hands, going down the chain of selling and buying until it reaches you, the enduser, the price goes up a bit. Your local retailer thus ends up with a machine and a licence for, say, 10 reinstallments (or one installment for a network of ten stations or anything in between). That’s why he can’t give you the original installation discs for free. He needs those for repairs, i.e. reinstalling your original OS.
Anyone who ever bought a machine together with the original OS discs knows that MS limits the number of times he or she can reinstall that specific set of discs (with Win XP that was 10 reinstallments per machine… I don’t know about these restriction on any higher versions)
The product registration code tells MS what the exact count is. Once you have exceeded that limit, you have about three options. Contact MS, explain about repeated crashes that necessitated installing the OS over and over again, and they just might reset that counter to 1. Or you might purchase their “recovery disc” (also with limited use, but I may be mistaken here). Or, finally, you might call on a good friend who might be willing to grant you the use of one (or more?) “reinstall-credits”. Mind you, once all credits are used up, you can still use the “exhausted” OS-discs, though you may be confronted with some strange computer behaviour and a permanent message urging you to purchase original, legitimate MS software (i..e.the recovery set)…
So, apart from what Leo correctly suggests, you get and remain stuck with MS or you move on to a better FREE OS cum applications.
For those who are financially in better doings (and sometimes better off softwarewise as well?): get addicted to Apple/Mac or conceive and create your own supermachine ;-)
Greetings to all
and that nothing but good and pleasant things may come your way in 2011.
Patrick.
I didn’t quite understand James Nell’s comments. I am obsessive about keeping things updated, Microsoft and otherwise. I have been online since years before we had high speed Internet available and I have to chuckle when I remember the power and performance of my early PCs. Since getting away from dial-up I have left my PCs on 24/7/365 only turning them off when power went out and my UPS shut them down. I have never had any update related problems other than one minor issue with a bug in a MS update some years ago. It didn’t really cause me any problems but apparently there was a bug which was fixed and the update was re-released best I recall. As to the comment about them sending you stuff you didn’t need, only critical updates are automatically downloaded and installed. Anything to do with software or extra features is under the optional software section on the MS Update page and you have to specifically select them to download them. Those I will pick and choose. Your comment about the nVidia drivers would have me bet you just downloaded and installed new drivers without manually uninstalling the old ones first. 90% of the time you can get away with it but that 10% of the time when it causes problems can be quite maddening. This is the voice of experience here and it was a lesson I learned and took to heart. I upgrade video cards routinely and can assure you the same holds true for ATI. Video drivers are the one thing I will uninstall before upgrading to a new version. Most importantly, the reason for upgrades and patches to begin with is problems with software and applications is that not every situation and computing environment can be duplicated and remedied before it is released. Problems often don’t become apparent until the product is in the field. With security patches. bad guys are always trying to figure out ways to exploit things and are sadly too often successful. Every MS security patch prevents an exploitable aspect of the operating system or other software from being exploited by bad guys. What you say is akin to the guy who preaches it isn’t necessary to change the oil in a car’s engine, just add it as needed and swears because he had 50,000 miles without a breakdown he’s doing the right thing. The risk isn’t going to be visible until something really bad happens and then the chap is going to blame the make/model or something other than his own failure to do proper maintenance. And that’s exactly what patches and updates are: maintenance. On the most basic level patches and upgrades are often necessary for newer software to function. I’m probably 3 or 4 times the age of a typical PC gamer but I can tell you that the latest video card drivers are a must for gaming. I also do a lot of music and video editing so there again, the latest drivers are a necessity for my software to be the most current. It’s your right to choose to ignore upgrades and patches and put your machine and your privacy at risk, but something tells me you take your example and encourage others to follow it. I hope not.
Great advice. I did the image first thing. then went on to install stuff and was asked to set up a password to protect the laptop. Never had a laptop before, seemed like a good idea. Well somehow I screwed it up and after a reboot couldn’t get back in. Only then did I discover I could have made a password rescue disk. The good news is the image installed, and I breathed a huge sigh of relief.
@Rich
It good that you were able to restore from a backup image, but if you didn’t have that, here’s an article which shows how to reset a forgotten Windows Login password
I’ve lost the password to my windows administrator account how do i get i _back?
I might add one last step…
After doing all of the above, take *another* image backup. That way, you can always get the system back to the way you originally configured/updated/etc’ed it, without having to go back to “factory fresh” and re-apply everything.
Hi Leo, I have a question. How can I download the backup software (step 3) if I shouldn’t be connected to the internet (step 5)? I am confused.
Using a different computer. Backup software is, ultimately, something you should probably already have anyway. (If you don’t, then defer the backup step until after you have connected to the internet, but do it as soon as possible.)
Windows 7 comes with an Image Backup software program in the Maintenance folder. It is simple and works. I do regular Image backups and have needed to restore the system twice, and it worked great.
after what I learned yesterday. I do like leo and the article but wished I had done this as my #2A and that being testing the hard drive and memery because even tho my hp dv4 still works as far as my non computer geeg goes failed test @ 62 % luckly 1 monthbefore warenty end. if and when I buy either a new hd or either anew or used computer im checking date on hard drive before buying.
There’s one other thing that you should always do.
Create a non-Administrator (Standard user) account with a different password for your everyday use. Then only ever use the Administrator account for things like installing software and when UAC prompts for an Administrator password. If you name the initial account (the Administrator account created using the prompt for your name when the computer first starts) something like Maintenance (or if you didn’t create it with that name rename it) will remind you it’s not an account for everyday use.
I have been asked to configure several new computers for friends and family over the years. Of course, the first thing I do is install Macrium Reflect and take a complete disk image. Following that I run EaseUS to split the C partition into a C and D partition. I move the user folders (pictures, videos, downloads, etc) to D then create D:\Images and take a C: image.
Now the user(s) can save all files to D: and when they brick their system (this happens from time to time) I can just restore the image without worrying about the user files.
By EaseUS you mean EaseUS Partition Master. People might confuse it and try to use EaseUS Todo Backup, which we highly recommend here at Ask Leo!, for that and wonder why they can’t use it to partition their drives.
1. Disconnect that new computer from the internet
3. Make a system image backup Using Macrium Reflect or other downloaded Software is going to be quite difficult to do, UNLESS you have previously downloaded it on your old computer (a fresh up-to-date version software copy) then transfer all your downloads to a backup disk or thumb-drive.
Some of these messages are old and a few things have changed since then.
“… if I’m paying for something (i.e. the O.S.) …. then I want it! …”.
Now you’re only renting the OS and you’re not entitled to having the installation disks.
“… If you don’t have installation disks, now’s the time to get in touch with the vendor and insist on them”
Firstly, it might help if you speak Chinese. “Dell” may sound like an American name, but it’s not really.
Crapware “… in general it’s an annoyance thing rather than a true safety/security thing”.
Now crapware has dozens of processes and services running on your machine, most of which collect some type of info and send it out and/or download more crapware to fill up your drive.
“… I have never had any update related problems …”.
You must be blessed or didn’t realize that your updates are actually turned off.
Finally, a constructive, but expensive, suggestion: Buy the retail Windows installation media from a brick and mortar store.
Running a system image backup when you first startup your computer is the closest thing to an installation disk. It may not be perfect but it does the job.
Just received a new HP Envy. No sticker with Windows license. And no, battery is not accessible either. Can hardly even read the s/n info which is printed on the bottom. Hadn’t seenanyone mention that situation yet.
Magical Jelly Bean Key Finder or BelArc Advisor can be used to get license key.
Thank you. Using Belarc. Sure would like something in my hands!
The keys that you get out of those utilities are not the real Windows product installation keys. You can’t use those keys to reinstall Windows (or Office). Try it. If you have the Windows product key on a label or CD (Certificate of Authenticity), compare that with what those utilities produce. There are many types of “product keys”, such as pre-activation key, setup key, OEM key, diagnostic key, etc. The “real” product key is well hidden and I haven’t seen a tool that can find it. Online, there are Powershell or VBS scripts that claim to find product keys (out of the Registry), but none can reproduce the Certificate of Authenticity key for permanently activated installation. MS is no dummy.
Maybe things are changing? I went on-line with HPSupport and told them my unit did not hava a certificate of authenticity. They connected to my pc remotely and inquired in dos. They gave me the number. I then ran Belaec and it provided the same number.
Good news or naive?
Harris
If you’ve recently bought a new PC or LT, chances are you have the windows10 pre-installed and activated (with a valid licence key).
For those who have machines that were updated from win7, win8 or win8.1, you will need to buy a windows 10 licence key if you upgrade your machine or do a clean install. You can then clone your disk or use your old C-drive in your new computer. Because you have bought a win10 licence, your computer will then automatically connect to MS and validate your key.
If MS declines the key and ask you to activate your windows version, all you need to do is go to system/activation and re-enter your key.
If this should fail, your best bet would be to phone MS from your country and they can sort you out by activating your licence for you, for free (if your licence is valid).
Having stickers with licence keys stuck on your machine…. Do they still do that?
I only know this, because I needed to help a friend.
I hope this helps you too.
Mealone
What do I do with my old PC that has windows 7. Do i need to retire it or delete it. I setup my new PC already. It would not let me install with my email so i used my phone number. I guess that’s because I already had a microsoft account with my old windows 7. I have windows 10 on my new PC. everything seems to be working OK on my new PC.
You could keep using it: How To Keep Using Windows 7 Safely After Support Ends
On what media are we doing all these backups?
I recommend an external drive.
Hi Leo and thank you for the article.
Excuse my ignorance, but in relation to step 1 how do you get the back up software (e.g. Macrium Reflect) downloaded and installed onto your new machine without connecting to the internet?
Thanking you,
Phil.
It’s good you asked that question.
Windows has a built-in backup program but it is generally better to use EaseUS Todo or Macrium Reflect free. You can download a copy on another computer if necessary. And if you create a rescue disc, it’s not necessary to install the backup software to perform the backup. In fact, you can even perform a system image backup with the rescue disc before you ever boot up your new system.
https://askleo.com/webinar-replay-backing-up-in-windows-10-and-ask-leo-anything/
https://askleo.com/windows-10-backup/
Thank you for this reply on how to backup before you have installed Macrium Reflect. I plan to buy a new computer today. I will install Macrium Reflect on a USB drive to do the first backup, before I even give it the WiFI password to my router (if it lets me).
Use a different computer, download it to a thumbdrive.
One problem with backing up a new computer at first startup is being able to boot from recovery media. This is because the manufacturer has enabled fast boot and it is impossible to override it with Del, F10 or whatever. That is if you even get the time to read which key to start boot to BIOS/UEFI/Boot order in the first place. I’ve had this more than once.
Leo –
Judging by how high you prioritized the creation of a Windows 10 recovery drive, I think I know the answer to my first question – but I want to be sure.
1. Let’s say I buy a new PC and I create a recovery drive for it on Day 7. The recovery drive will contain a copy of Windows 10 that reflects my Windows system as it exist on Day 7, including all the adjustments I made during the first week – correct?
2. Do you see any reason for creating additional recovery drives as future backups? Or is this taken care of better by creating periodic disk image backups, say with Macrium? (I’m assuming here your answer to question #1 is yes.)
3. If I ever want to restore my Windows 10 PC to its default out-of-the-box state, is the Reset Your PC (aka Start Fresh?) feature the easiest way to go? This makes it no longer necessary to have the installation media – correct?
Thank you.
1. As I understand it, yes. (Though that’s not required — it could not have some recent updates, and could assume that those would be re-installed with a subsequent Windows Update run.)
2. I much prefer image backups over recovery drives in general if you’re wanting to restore to something recent. Recovery drives are great for starting over, and for the few additional tools that are included.
3. Reset this PC is the easiest yes. But it won’t be there if, for example, you find yourself in this situation due to a failed hard drive having been replaced with a new, empty one.
In your 8 preliminary steps you instruct to turn off the Internet. At what step do i turn it back on?
Step # 9?
Thank you for your advice,
Joe
“5. Check the firewall and connect to the internet”
Hi Leo,
I just got my new laptop. I used this article as a guide for setting it up and it was a big help! Thank you!
By the way, before I even got the new laptop out of the box the old one started working great again (8-yr old Win7 machine). And then a couple days after buying the new machine I remembered I had $100 in gift cards I forgot to use! LOL!
THAT’s not a “LOL,” that’s an “Ouch!”
I feel for you; believe me, I’ve been there.
I love the idea of creating a factory configuration image backup, but the procedure described here left me with a couple of questions and concerns. I read an answer you provided to someone else’s question that said to download EaseUS Todo on another machine, create an Emergency Disk then boot the new laptop to the Emergency Disk and create the backup.
OK, that answered my first question but what about the backup drive? If I plug my WD – My Passport Ultra USB HDD into my new Lenovo Yoga Laptop before booting it up to the EaseUS Todo Emergency Disk, how will the HDD be recognized? No device drivers will be installed on the laptop for the USB HDD. Don’t these drivers need to be installed before it can be recognized by EaseUS Todo as the backup drive?
I also have reservations about changing the Boot Order in the UEFI and booting my brand-new laptop to the EaseUS Todo Emergency Disk the very first time I power it up. I am concerned about how this could possibly affect the Microsoft Out Of Box Experience (OOBE) setup afterwards. I am also concerned about how this could possibly affect the performance of the laptop down the road. These concerns may be unwarranted, but a little reassurance would go a long way.
I think you have some of the best content online and I really appreciate the way you present it. Thanks Leo and keep up the outstanding work.
The UEFI/BIOS sees the drives before booting the OS.
It’s not necessary to change the boot order. You can get into the boot menu that only boots from that drive for that session.
After turning your computer on, press a specific key before the Windows logo appears. The key to press is different for each computer brand.
I got this list from Bing Copilot.
Acer: Del or F2
Asus: F9
Dell: F12
HP: Esc or F10
Lenovo: F1 or F2
Samsung: F2
You must press this key before the Windows logo appears.
If you don’t have one of those brands, you can experiment with the keys listes above.
Thanks so much for the timely and detailed response Mark. I press F2 on my Lenovo Yoga laptop to bring up the Boot Menu. Guess I’ll give it a try. You guys do amazing work. I couldn’t figure out how to Reply to your Reply. It seems that I had to post a new comment. Hope that’s ok. Thanks again Mark.